Archive for the 'Scuba' Category
December 15th, 2003 by Eshin
This are essentially non-essential items that you can use when you are diving. I do recommend that you consider purchasing these products since they only help to improve your divings experience or make your better prepared for any eventuality.
Dive Computer
I bought myself a dive computer because it’s easier to record the technical details using a dive computer. It also helps you in working out how long the periods of decompression are and should be, while also indicating how long you can stay in the bottom. They vary in cost and features, but you usually get what you pay for. Some dive computers can replace your SPG. I would recommend against this as it gives you only one instrument panel and should it fail, it leaves you stranded (although you should probably surface if that happens and if you’ve been relying on your dive computer, no diving for 24 hours if that happens). My dive computer is UWATEC Smart Pro which fits nicely on my wrist. It’s so helpful, it lets me know if my rate of ascent is too fast something I’m prone to do.
Note – Don’t rely solely on your dive computer. Always make sure that you back up your dive calculations manually as well.
Dive Knife
Okay, there’s a little injection of manhood when you start looking at dive knives. There shouldn’t be, cause you’re not buying it to go kill anything, but more for safety purposes and convenience, e.g. cutting fishing nets you’ve got yourself tangled in. Also, having a knife can be used for signalling others by tapping on your tank (although not really that effect as a way of getting attention). Having said that, I succeeded in getting the meanest, sleekest looking dive knife that there was. And I’ll admit, walking around with it strapped to your wetsuit on the boat makes you believe your the hero from Deep Blue Sea. Okay…these aren’t toys. Mine’s the AUSA Titanium Dive Knife. It’s blade isn’t as sharp as a combat knife but it looks like it. It’s also made from titanium to prevent it from rusting more easily than stainless steel. It’s lighter too.
Dive Lights
You should think about getting yourself a dive light if you are planning to do any night diving. It’s useful also when you go diving in the day time as it helps bring out the colours of what you are looking at more clearly. Most diving certifications suggest or require you to carry two dive lights, just in case your primary light runs out. For my primary light, I use the Underwater Kinetics SL4 High Intensity Dive Light. It’s specifically designed for underwater use and looks like it can take a knock or too. My secondary light is a smaller affair – the Underwater Kinetics UK2AAA Mini Pocket Light. It can fit into your pocket and it can be used outside of the water (fits onto a cap to give you handsfree illumination!).
Watch
It’s always good to have a watch with you when you go diving. Most watches will do but I bought the Casio Sea-Pathfinder Watch specifically for diving. The reason why it’s so cool is that it has a built in compass, barometer and thermometer. It can also read the tides and the moon cycles. Okay, not that useful for most people but for me, as a budding diver, its great. The compass I can use underwater, and I can also get a reading on the temperature. Also with dive planning I can use the other functions. I also needed a good digital watch and reading the display is a lot easier underwater than my other watches.
Dive Bags
There are probably two bags you will need when you start owning your own equipment – the main bag and a dry bag. There are a range of bags out there and its really personal preference the one you pick. I bought myself the TUSA Diver Scuba Fanatic backpack style bag (in a fetching blue!). It just manages to fit my equipment in there but you’ll have to pack your equipment in a special way when you finish, otherwise it won’t fit. No just dumping the equipment in and worrying about it later (which you shouldn’t do anyway!). One drawback of this bag is the backpack style. It can be a hassle lugging the load on your back while there are many bags that employ wheels to aid you. It may seem light in the store, but remember, your equipment will be wet, adding additional weight, and it will probably be the end of a long day. Just a pointer – remember diving should be fun.
December 15th, 2003 by Eshin
Thinking of Buying?
For the uninitiated, fins all look alike. But that doesn’t mean that they all behave in the same way. When you kick, the fins help to displace water and depending on their shape they will do it differently. Moving from rental to private means that you have fins that are suited to your style of diving. For rental, dive operators may have a standard pair which is based on the lowest common denominator or a mish-mash of fins fins available. Using different fins will mean that for each dive you will have to get used the fins and the way in which they work. Not a big problem if you go infrequently, bearing in mind that a good set of fins will be expensive.
Fin Selection
As I mentioned before, fins take on different shapes and sizes. Your choice of fin will depend greatly on what style of diving you plan on doing and what diving conditions you are most likely to be in. Some fins are designed for speed while others are designed for efficiency. Essentially, picking the right fin for the job will ensure that your own exertion is at the right level. Be sure to get fins that are for scuba diving – there are fins that are primarily used for surface swimming (snorkelling) and they may not be suitable for scuba.
What I Have
I use Black Extra Force Fins. These are great and look good too. Aside from looking good, their shape is designed to better channel the water through the blades when you kick – giving you better thrust and efficiency. Extra Force Fins come with a Force Wings which attach to your blades to give you added control over how your fins work. Mine are fitted with with Whiskers which I think are useful for most types of diving. By adjusting them in different positions, you can adjust the way the fins work dependent on the water conditions and style of diving. These are expensive, but well worth it. A point to note though is that you will probably have to use a flutter kick rather than the usually kicking motion. Ask your intstructor how to do this.
December 15th, 2003 by Eshin
DISCLAIMER
This section deals with the Bouyancy Compensator Device and regulator. These two items are probably the most important items that you will buy for scuba diving. They are the most expensive for a reason – you will need these above all other items to survive underwater. For this reason, it is important to seek professional advice when buying this equipment along AND to have proper training in its use. I can only give my advice as to what is comfortable. Remember it is only my advice and something to think about when you buy your equipment. You should not base your decision on my advice alone and I recommend that you do seek professional help with equipment selection.
Thinking of Buying?
You should be thinking about buying this equipment if you know that you will be diving regularly or that you feel that this is a long term interest. Two things you should consider when you make the transition to private from rental equipment – cost and convenience.
When I say cost in your considerations to move from rental to private, I mean the cost of paying for the equipment in one lump sum and owning it, as a opposed to the cost you should spend on your equipment. If you are going regularly, then the cost of renting the equipment will add up and quickly equal the amount that you would have spent on buying your own equipment. Of course, the depends on how serious you are on the sport and how frequently you go diving. I like to go every two weeks, so for me the cost is justified in getting my own equipment.
Convenience should be your second consideration. Owning your own equipment means that you are familiar with it and, if you go diving with a regular buddy, they are familiar with it too. Familiarity with it means that you won’t have to spend too much time adjusting and learning it before you get into the water, and you know where things are and how to adjust them when in the water. But the drawback of owning your own equipment is that its your responsibility to look after it and lug it around. It’s no longer the dive operators responsibility to maintain it, wash it and transport it. That’s your privilege. If you go only a few times a year, it might not be worth the expenditure and the space it takes up.
Some would tell you that owning your own equipment might give you an added sense of safety. While this can be true, it is worth noting that most reputable dive operators will ensure that this equipment is in good service and working order. Failure on their behalf to do so, will mean their reputation, safety record, and essentially their livelihood. As long as you choose a reputable dive operator, you should have no worries about using rental equipment.
Cost
How much should you spend on a BCD and regulator ? Well, how much can you afford? It’s an obvious answer but it is probably the most correct one. You should aim to spend as much as you truly can afford on this equipment. Remember, its kit that helps you live. Higher prices in this category usually mean better quality and durability. Quality is important as it gives you that sense of security, while durability ensures that, with the right care, your scuba equipment is an investment that can last 10 years. Save your money in other areas if you have to. This is not an area you should get a good feeling when you’ve economized.
Having said that, once you have found the equipment you like, be sure to shop around. So long as you bear in mind the quality and reputation of the shop you are buying from, bargains and discounts can be found. I would, however, strongly dissuade you from buying off the Internet. You need to see the products, try them on, and inspect their quality because of the nature of this equipment and handing over such a large amount of money. I also like to ask questions and new ones always spring to mind when I’m buying equipment.
What I Have
I use a SeaQuest Pro QD+ BCD. I got mine in 2002 which meant that I got a 30th Anniversary Edition, which meant it came in a fetching black and silver combination. I’m sure I also paid for the privilege. It’s a modern jacket-style BCD which is fine for recreational diving. It has an integrated weight system which allows more of the weight to sit on further up on your body and also means that your BCD does a lot of the work in supporting that weight in more evenly distributed fashion. Additionally, it has three dump valves on it – which makes it easier to control your bouyancy.
An optional extra, that I have chosen, is to use the integrated Air Source. This negates the need to have a secondary regulator since it is integrated into the BCD’s inflator. It’s one less hose and regulator that you have to worry about when you are diving and improves your streamline too. In an emergency, you can share your primary regulator with your buddy while you use the air source. It’s important to note that this configuration is only suitable for recreational diving. Technical diving requires you to have an additional normal regulator available. Be sure also to let your buddy know if you use an Air Source.
For the regulator, I use a ScubaPro MK25 First Stage and a G250HP Second Stage. To be honest, I went with the recommendation of my instructor and this was the best quality that I could afford to buy. I’m ashamed to admit that I can’t go into the technical workings and pro’s and con’s of what to look for in a regulator. Go with the advice of a qualified professional.
December 15th, 2003 by Eshin
Thinking of Buying?
This is probably the first bit of kit that people buy when they start out since its relatively cheap to the other equipment you’ll need for diving. However, if I compare it to the rental equipment available, I can’t think of many reasons why it would be better to own your own equipment. Dive operators want you to be able to see thing and enjoy your experience, so I figured that the masks they provide will do as such and they usually have plenty of spares available should yours leak. The amount you use your snorkel doesn’t really justify why you should own your own.
Having said that, bear in mind too that the rental equipment has probably seen a high degree of usage and is also purchased with the lowest common denominator in mind. Owning your own mask means that you’ve picked one that fits your face comfortably and reduces the time you have to spend clearing your mask when in the water. Most rental equipment will most likely not have any of the flashy technological advancements such as a purge valve on them. Owning your own snorkel will essentially give you that comforting hygenic feeling and come with a range of options.
Mask
When you are buying your mask, perform this simple test. Put the mask against your face, without strapping it on. Breath in through your nose and see if the mask stays on. It should fit perfectly up against your face without falling off (indicating water tightness and suction). While there are other options to picking a mask, that’s essentially the one piece of advice that you should follow.
Depending on your own personal preference, you can choose masks that afford differently degrees of visibility. Some give plenty of clearance between the glass and the face, while others are low profile. I think with a low profile, it means that you get to see more accurately underwater, reducing the visual distortion that occurs when light travels through water and air to hit your eyes.
Some masks have an auto-purge facility or something like that to allow you to more easily clear your mask of water. All masks sold nowadays should be able to clear water so if this is not a big thing for you, don’t bother with it. You’re paying for it at the end of the day. If you get a mask that fits well, clearing shouldn’t be too much of problem for you. I guess its useful if you are filiming or photographing and don’t want to miss that highly sought after shot because you were clearing your mask.
Snorkel
Not much to say here. Essentially, a snorkel starts out as just a basic tube allowing you to breathe on the surface with your head underwater. Additions that you can find on snorkels are an anti-tide adapter for the top and the auto-purge valve. The first prevents water from getting into your snorkel, especially if the surface conditions are choppy. The second feature allows you to expend less effort in blowing water out of your snorkel using a one-way valve system. This means you can just blow out normally and water is automatically cleared from your snorkel, instead of you having to blow the water upwards through the top.
What I Have
The mask and snorkel that I use are an Aqualung SPHERA Black Mask and a silver TUSA Snorkel Adapter. The mask is low profile, giving you less water to clear and gives you better visibility. The snorkel also both the anti-tide and auto-purge.
December 15th, 2003 by Eshin
Thinking of Buying?
So you’ve decided to splash out on a bit of kit? After the mask and snorkel, this is usually what most people consider buying. Fins maybe…but the wetsuit often adds the extra feeling that now you’re a diver. Okay, shallow people like me consider these things important.
It’s big advantage to get your own wetsuit, if you’re serious about diving. It means that you’ll have a suit that fits you and works right for you. Most diving outfits will provide you with one but they will often only have the standard sizes that cater to the lowest common denominator. Out-of-the ordinary sizes may be hard to rent. Having a wetsuit that doesn’t fit right defeats the purpose of wearing a wetsuit. Also, having one that fits right for you will also make your diving experience more comfortable. Afterall, aren’t we diving to enjoy ourselves? Rental suits also see a lot of use, and inevitably they will be damaged. Hygiene is also a concern.
Ensure a Tight Fit
It is important that that the wetsuit that you pick fits tightly. This is because of the basic principle behind how the wetsuit works. The material making up the wetsuit is made of neoprene which has miniscule cavities or bubbles in its structure. When you go diving, these cavities fill up with water from the surrounding environment. However, as they are trapped within the structure of the wetsuit, your own body heat warms up the water in the wetsuit. This serves as a barrier against the surrounding water and making your body believe it is warmer. If you don’t have a tight fitting wetsuit, this action won’t work and essentially you’ll have bought yourself a nice piece of clothing that you can swim in.
So make sure its a tight fit – when you’re in the shop, it shouldn’t feel too comfortable but it should feel tight. When you’re in the water, you’ll get more movement so don’t worry overly about it feeling tight. Make sure that the ankles and cuffs are secure because if it is too loose, it will circulate cold water through the suit drawing heat away from you.
Consider Your Diving Style
When shopping for a wetsuit, it is important to consider the type of diving that you will be doing and where you’ll be doing the diving. For a warmer climate, I suspect that a 3mm wetsuit will be perfectly fine for most types of diving. If its warmer, you might want to consider using a shortie (a wetsuit using shorts and short-sleeved) or a less thick wetsuit.
However, do consider that a full wetsuit helps protect you from the environment to a certain degree. When you go deeper, it tends to get colder, so you might want a full wetsuit if you plan to go deep diving. Additionally, if you plan to go diving for long periods of time, even in warm water, prolonged submersion might draw heat away from your body without you realizing.
At the end of the day, the best way to consider your purchase is to think about how much you want to enjoy your dives. Do you really want to cut short the dive of a life time because you were cold?
What I got
My own wetsuit is ScubaPro SilverSkin 3mm TPF 26. It’s kept me warm when I’ve dived in Hong Kong. The suit has a silver layer on the inside providing “reflective” qualities to the suit which helps with retaining heat. It also has rubber shin pads which help protect your suit when you’re kneeling on the bottom.
It’s black and that suits my vanity fine. Some recommed that you have a wetsuit that gives you high degree of visibility but its not essential. Looking good is part of the fun right?
